Golden Ale
Guest: Richie Stolarz, founder of Beers International. Richie began putting high end beers on the shelf long before it was a good idea. In 1980 the suggestion that a case could cost upwards of $40 was absurd. Now there are some beers that cost that per bottle! Richie was among the first to take the risk to sell high end beer. That sustained commitment of so long ago has earned him a place amoung the greats in the field. People in the industry from the smallest importer to Michael Jackson himself speak his name with reverence. Riche left us on October 8th following the 1990 GABF. Like the beers we tasted, he has left many of us wishing for more.
Generalized Summation:
Brigand
When you sample beers you considered similar back to back sometimes you are surprized. Direct comparison can yield things you would have never suspected otherwise. Case in point, Brigand. When I first had it I thought "this one is a bit different, but it will be right at home in a golden ale tasting".
Had I been blindfolded and handed this beer in a golden ale context I would have guessed someone was trying to fool me with a saison. It is cidery and tart in both aroma and taste, with the character of some unidentifiable spice. In a way, it was the most "Belgiany" of the bunch, if that wild taste is what you think of when Belgian beer comes to mind.
Brigand is imported by Wetten Importers.
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Hoegaarden Grand Cru
It is so sad for us that Interbrew has opted not to send this one to our shores. Duvel is clearly the king of this category, but if anything could unseat it it would be this.
The first time I had Hoegaarden (it was in the UK) I knew it was something special. Where Duvel is very clean with little in the way of flavors one might associate with an ale, Hoegaarden is full of them. It was beautifully balanced with a wonderful fruity character, as well as a spiciess. This led to a very complex profile. If you ever find yourself in a country where this is available please seek this one out. You really owe it to yourself to experience this interpretation of a Belgian Golden Ale.
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Delirium Tremens
This was another one I always took for a knock off of Duvel. Think again.
Dilirium Tremens, also known as Mateen Triple, stood out from the rest in flavor profile. Of all of them this was the least balanced, though that is not necessarily a bad thing. The balance was pushed deep into the realm of the malty. It was a very chewy maltiness, with a cakey character I have encountered in many brown ales. If blindfolded I would not have guessed it's pale color.
Delirium Tremens is imported by the jerk at Best Brands who refused to reveal his line.
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Duvel
I have always considered Duvel to be a great brewing achievment. Firstly, it's extreme, pilsner-pale color is amazing considering it's ABV approaches 9%. I have been told by the importer that the base malt is not kilned but steamed to make it as pale as possible.
Secondly, I have heard many people call Duvel a triple, but I have never agreed. Of all the evening's beers it was the cleanest tasting - that is the favors that are most appearent are malt and hop. The banana-fruitiness you generally find in a triple is completely devoid here. Instead, it's clean taste totally fails to reveal it's intense strength. It would almost - almost - be more accurate to compare it to a very fine pilsner - but not quite!
A 9% ale with little or no ester profile. A 9% ale that is as pale as any beer out there. A 9% ale that tastes like a 5% ale. Duvel is a miracle. Duvel is imported by VanBerg & DeWulf.
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Julius
Julius was an interesting addition, acquired from www.belgianshop.com. Like Hoegaarden Grand Cru it is a product of DeKluis. After producing a gem like the Grand Cru I can't imagine why they felt the need to make another, however Julius does have it's differences. In a broad sense there are similarities, but Julius is weaker, around 6.5 ABV. Oddly, it's distinctive element is that it was the most alcoholic tasting and smetting of the bunch. It made quite a contrast with Duvel, which is around 2% stronger with far less alcohol presence.
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Lucifer
Of all the bunch this is the hardest one to say good things about. Like the rest it fit into this category in a general sense. It was notable as being the only beer as pale as Duvel, but where Duvel was a bit cloudy Lucifer was pretty clear. Of all these beers Lucifer had the least character. Next to the rest it even seemed bland.
Lucifer is imported by Wetten Importers
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Straffe Hendrick
Straffe is a product of Riva, every now and then there is a little confusion concerning what it is. There is a line of beers called Staffe Hendrick, the pale ale gets to the U.S. but the brune does not, nor does a pils of the same name. Rest assure, the 720mL bottles of Straffe Hendrick that populate our shelves are not pils!
It is a very well balanced brew, in fact it stood out as such right along with Duvel and Heogaarden Grand Cru. It is weak for this category though, 6.5% like the Julius. However unlike the Julius it did not taste powerful. Of all of these beers it was definately the lightest tasting, not blandish like Lucifer, more like delicate. If you want a good representing flavor for this category, but not the high alcohol this might be the one to buy.
Straffe Hendrick is imported by Wetten Importers
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