4 Vintages of Vapeur En Folie
Guest: John Hansell, publisher of The Malt Advocate magazine. It should be mentioned that unlike the other tastings featured in this section the guest was arranged by the establishment hosting the tasting, not by me. John's primary editorial focus is Scotch whiskey, though he has a long, very well established background as a professional beer writer.
Generalized Summation:
Because these are all vintages of the same beer, and because of the rarity of this beer this is impractical as a "buyer's guide", so the format of this tasting report will have to be different. In general, although these vintages had a common base, age impacted them dramatically. Cumin is listed on the label as an ingredient. I swear, you would never know. When Belgians use a seasoning it is generally not to capture the taste of that seasoning, but to create a new flavor blend - making the whole greater than the sum of the parts. It was also said during the tasting that chicory was a component, though I could not find evidence of that on the label.
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Vapeur En Folie - 1995
This bottle was a delight but it made the point that this beer needs to be aged. It was pale and lightly effervescent, with an aroma that was a bit lemony, alcoholic and slightly "corky" (as in smelled like a cork). I guessed it was a stronger beer but was told it was only around 6%. When I got home I checked the label and found it was 8%. One for me! The flavor was earthy and a bit tart. There was a deep bitterness at the back of the tounge that was attributed to chicory. It might have been from first wort hopping though (my suspicion). It was also a little ketchupy tasting. This character in other beer is usually the result of unwanted bacteria getting into the mix, although it was probably intentional here. It worked.
Vapeur En Folie - 1994
Much of the above applies to this one as well, except to say the aroma was less corky and more grassy. Thought the '95 did not smell malty, it did in comparison to the '94 (both were about equal in temperature). It was lighter tasting than the '95 and as such a bit more drinkable. In general the flavors seemed noticably more blended. This was the first hint of the impact of aging.
Vapeur En Folie - 1993
It seems that over time this style can come within range of lambic. The flavor components had coalessed into a very solid tasting beer. the aroma reminded me distinctly of a German wiess, but lactic and corky. It also was a little wiess-like in it's cloudy appearance. The '94 and '95 were both fine brews, but with this incarnation a beer was born. I think 5 years is what this one needs to be ready.
Vapeur En Folie - 1990
Here it is, Vapeur En Folie was a quintessential Belgian beer after 6 years in the bottle. This one was absolutely world class. I have heard Michael Jackson mention vanilla in describing beer flavors, but until this glass I never bought it. There was a vert distinct vanilla character to this one and the tartness had built as well. Great flavor combo. It was beautifully mellowed and most definately ready. If you find 1990 Vapeur En Folie, buy it.
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